Jotunheimen Trail Run Review: A 70K Journey around bygdin
Photo by Løpskonsult.
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There are plenty of ways to experience Jotunheimen.
Most people come with hiking boots and a backpack, planning to spend several days moving between mountain huts. Others arrive with climbing gear, aiming for some of Norway's most iconic peaks. Once every summer, however, a few hundred runners gather outside Bygdin Høyfjellshotell with a different goal entirely.
Run all the way around it.
Jotunheimen Trail Run follows a spectacular loop from Bygdin to Eidsbugarden and Fondsbu before turning towards Torfinnsbu and eventually returning along the shoreline to where it all began. At just over 70 kilometres, it isn't Norway's longest ultra, but few races offer such a varied day in the mountains.
The forecast leading into race day wasn't particularly encouraging. Rain had been mentioned all week, and most runners packed accordingly. Yet as six o'clock approached, the clouds began to break apart and the first light reached the peaks above Bygdin. Instead of spending the day hiding inside waterproof jackets, we were treated to almost perfect running conditions.
Leaving Bygdin Behind
The first kilometres ease you into the day.
The trail follows the northern side of Bygdin on good singletrack before gradually climbing into the mountains. It never feels particularly technical, which is both a blessing and a trap. Fresh legs have a habit of convincing you that today's pace is sustainable.
Mine certainly did.
I'd promised myself before the start that I wouldn't chase the strongest runners. The plan lasted until I realised I was still running with them.
Every climb felt comfortable, every descent even more so, and before long I stopped looking at my watch altogether. The effort felt controlled and, for the first time in quite a while, everything simply seemed to work.
Then the field disappeared.
By around seven kilometres I was running completely alone. The leaders had slipped over the next ridge, while the runners behind were nowhere to be seen. For almost thirty kilometres I rarely saw another competitor.
It sounds strange in a race with 350 participants, but that's what this landscape does. The mountains are so vast that they swallow the field whole.
Into the High Mountains
After around eighteen kilometres the route changes character.
The climbing becomes more sustained, the trail rougher and the scenery dramatically more alpine. The long climb shown on the elevation profile doesn't look especially intimidating beforehand, but out on the course it seems to continue forever. Every false summit reveals another rise waiting ahead.
The higher we climbed, the bigger the views became.
Looking back, Bygdin stretched through the valley below, while the trail we'd followed earlier looked impossibly small from above. Despite the forecast, visibility remained excellent for much of the day.
It was easy to forget you were racing.
Beyond the climb, the trail enters long sections of classic Jotunheimen terrain. Endless boulder fields force everyone to slow down, regardless of ability. There's little point worrying about pace through here. Every step demands attention, and after a while the watch becomes irrelevant. You're simply moving from one stable rock to the next.
You either love it or hate it, either way you need to accept it.
They're demanding, but they also feel authentic. You're not running through a groomed race course. You're crossing a mountain landscape that has existed long before trail races did.
Photo by Løpskonsult. Five hours at max takes it`s toll.
Eidsbugarden
Somewhere before Eidsbugarden I realised things were going much better than expected.
I was sitting eighth overall against a very strong field.
For a while, it felt like one of those rare days where everything clicks.
Then I hit the ground.
The descent towards Eidsbugarden is fast and rocky. I caught my foot, fell heavily and immediately knew something wasn't right. Standing up wasn't difficult.
Running was.
For the next couple of kilometres I limped towards the checkpoint, wondering whether the race might be over. Every downhill hurt, and even the flatter sections felt awkward.
Thankfully the pain gradually eased after leaving Eidsbugarden, although my legs never quite felt the same again.
Looking back, the fall probably wasn't the only reason the race changed. Trying to stay with the front group for nearly forty kilometres had also taken its toll.
Keeping Going
One thing I hadn't expected was how difficult eating would become.
Before the start I'd packed two bags of gummy sweets, convinced they'd get me through the day.
They didn't.
By the second half of the race I could barely look at them.
Instead, the backup plan became surprisingly important. Thick slices of white bread with Nugatti somehow tasted perfect, and Fuel of Norway gels were among the few things my stomach still accepted.
It's funny how quickly nutrition plans change during an ultra.
On paper everything is carefully calculated.
In reality, you simply eat whatever works.
Towards Torfinnsbu
Leaving Fondsbu, the route becomes quieter again.
The biggest climbs are behind you, but the mountains aren't quite finished yet.
Near the highest point before the descent towards Torfinnsbu, the trail crosses a mountain river that was much larger than I'd expected. The water reached well above my knees, the current was surprisingly strong and there wasn't much choice but to walk straight through it.
Nobody seemed to mind.
Wet shoes become part of the experience surprisingly quickly.
Not long afterwards, Torfinnsbu appeared on the shoreline below. Like every good mountain hut, it offered exactly what runners needed without any fuss. I refilled my bottles, grabbed something to eat and, before leaving, someone handed me a piece of chocolate.
I've eaten better chocolate.
I honestly can't remember enjoying any of it more.
The Long Way Home
The final stretch back to Bygdin feels like a different route.
The technical terrain gradually gives way to smoother singletrack following the lake, and after hours of watching every foot placement, it finally becomes possible to look up again.
This section alone would make for a fantastic day hike.
The trail flows gently along the shoreline, passing small beaches, streams and rocky viewpoints with the mountains rising on the opposite side of the lake. After the demanding first half of the route, it feels like the landscape is giving something back.
By now, my race had become much simpler.
The battle for positions was over.
The only goal left was to keep moving towards Bygdin.
Back Where It Started
The finish line sits only a short walk from where the day began almost eleven hours earlier.
Crossing it was satisfying, of course, but it isn't my strongest memory from the race.
That came a few minutes later.
A volunteer handed me a bowl of hot tomato soup.
After a full day in the mountains, it tasted ridiculously good.
Driving home later that evening, I realised I wasn't thinking about my finishing position anymore. (A white lie.)
Instead I kept replaying small moments from the day. Running completely alone through the mountains. The endless climb after eighteen kilometres. Falling on the descent into Eidsbugarden. Wading through an icy river. The chocolate at Torfinnsbu. The final kilometres beside Bygdin.
Those are the things that stayed with me.
If you're looking for a fast trail race, there are easier places to find one.
If you're looking for one of the most rewarding mountain loops in Norway—whether you run it in a race or hike it over a few days—it's hard to imagine many better options than this.
Photo by Løpskonsult.
Trail Snapshot
Distance: 70.4 km
Elevation gain: ~2,400 m
Start & Finish: Bygdin Høyfjellshotell
Route: Bygdin – Eidsbugarden/Fondsbu – Torfinnsbu – Bygdin
Highlights
Beautiful singletrack above Bygdin.
Long alpine climb into classic Jotunheimen terrain.
Extensive boulder fields.
Mountain huts at Eidsbugarden, Fondsbu and Torfinnsbu.
Scenic lakeside trail back to Bygdin.
Gear Used
Shoes: adidas Terrex Agravic Ultra.
Poles: Leki Ultratrail FX.ONE Superlite.
Vest: Salomon ADV Skin 12.
Nutrition: Fuel of Norway gels, Nugatti sandwiches and far fewer gummy sweets than planned..
Written by Thore Kristian Engdal.
